Sump Pump Installation, Repair and Battery Backup in Des Plaines

Sump-Pump Diagnosis and Repair

A sump pump that runs constantly, short-cycles, will not start, or runs but leaves water in the pit is not protecting the basement the way it should. Our technician checks the pump, float switch, check valve, discharge piping and power supply before recommending any replacement.

Common repairs include a worn float switch, a failed check valve, a clogged intake screen, a stuck impeller, a tripped breaker or GFCI, or a discharge line blocked by debris or ice. We explain what we found and the available repair or replacement options before any work begins.

• Pump startup and shut-off cycle
• Float switch operation and travel
• Check valve condition
• Intake screen and impeller
• Discharge line and exterior exit
• Dedicated outlet, breaker and GFCI
• Backup pump and battery test where present

New Sump-Pump Installation and Replacement

When a pump has reached the end of its service life, cycles heavily in a high-water-table basement, or is undersized for the pit and the home's drainage load, replacement is often the better long-term answer. We size the replacement pump to the pit diameter, the lift height, the expected water volume and the discharge run rather than dropping in an identical replacement by default.

Every new pump we install is Right Away-supplied equipment selected for the home. Ask whether the qualifying sump pump is eligible for our $29/month membership warranty and review the written terms before enrollment.

A new installation includes removing the old pump, inspecting the pit and basin, setting the new pump at the correct height, reconnecting the check valve and discharge, securing the float travel, testing the startup and shut-off cycle, and confirming water moves out of the pit and away from the foundation.

• Selecting the correct horsepower and head rating
• Pit and basin condition and depth
• Check valve and discharge reconnection
• Float switch travel and anti-tangle clearance
• Dedicated, grounded electrical supply
• Startup test with water in the pit

Battery Backup Sump Pumps and Power-Outage Protection

The storms most likely to flood a Chicago-area basement are often the same storms that knock out power. A primary pump wired to a standard outlet stops the moment the circuit goes dead, and groundwater does not stop with it. A sump pump battery backup is a second, independent path for the water, with its own float and its own power source.

Power is not the only way a primary pump goes offline. A stuck float switch, a seized impeller, a failed check valve, a tripped GFCI or a pump at the end of its service life all leave the pit unattended. A battery backup sump pump also buys time when the water volume exceeds what one pump can move, sharing the load until the storm passes.

A battery backup runs from a deep-cycle battery kept charged by a controller. It works whether or not the home has municipal water, it can be alarmed and monitored, and its runtime depends on battery capacity, pump draw and how hard the pit is working. The battery itself is a wear item that needs periodic testing and eventual replacement.

• Power outage during the storm that causes the flooding
• Primary pump motor, impeller or float failure
• Tripped breaker or GFCI on the pump circuit
• Water volume beyond a single pump's capacity
• Pump age at or past the 7 to 10 year mark

Battery Backup Versus Water Powered Backup

A water powered backup sump pump uses municipal water pressure to move sump water and has no battery to maintain, so it can run as long as city pressure holds. It requires adequate municipal pressure and code-compliant backflow protection, it consumes potable water while running, and it is not an option for homes on a private well. Some municipalities restrict these units, so we confirm what your community allows before recommending one.

Neither system is better in every home, and neither is a guarantee against flooding. What a correctly sized and installed backup does is keep the pit pumping when the primary pump or the power fails, and tell you about it with a high-water alarm.

If the pump in your basement handles waste from a below-grade bathroom or laundry rather than groundwater, that is a sewage ejector pump and is covered on its own page.

• Battery backup: works on well or city water, needs battery maintenance
• Battery backup: runtime limited by battery capacity and pit demand
• Water powered: no battery, needs adequate municipal pressure
• Water powered: requires backflow protection and uses potable water
• Water powered: not available for homes on a private well
• Either system pairs with a high-water alarm

How a Backup Installation Works

We start at the pit. The technician measures the basin, checks the primary pump's condition and cycle behavior, looks at the check valve and discharge routing, and confirms the electrical supply. That determines which backup fits the pit and what the discharge arrangement needs to be.

The backup pump is set at the correct height above the primary so it activates only when the primary cannot keep the level down. The discharge is connected with its own check valve, the float travel is set and cleared of obstructions, the battery and charging controller or the water supply connection is installed, and the high-water alarm is mounted where it can be heard.

Before we leave, we fill the pit and run the changeover: primary off, backup starts, water leaves the pit, unit shuts off cleanly. You are shown how to test it yourself and what the alarm means.

• Pit, basin and primary pump assessment
• Backup pump sized to lift height and discharge run
• Dedicated check valve and discharge connection
• Battery, charger and controller, or water supply with backflow protection
• High-water alarm placement
• Live changeover test with water in the pit

Backup Testing and Maintenance

A backup that has never been tested is an assumption, not protection. Test the system at least twice a year and after any major storm, and check the battery terminals and charge state at the same time. Watch for these signs and schedule service rather than waiting for the next storm:

• Controller alarm, warning light or audible beep
• Battery more than a few years old or not holding charge
• Corroded battery terminals or loose connections
• Backup runs during normal weather, which points at a primary pump problem
• Backup does not start during a pour test
• Water powered unit running with no rain, suggesting a valve issue
• No high-water alarm installed at all

Warning Signs That a Sump Pump May Be Failing

Watch for:

• Runs constantly or short-cycles
• Loud grinding, rattling or humming
• Pump runs but water stays in the pit
• Tripped breaker or GFCI
• Visible rust or corrosion
• Pump age near or past 7 to 10 years
• No backup power and a finished basement
• Discharge line frozen, crushed or buried

Float Switches, Check Valves, Pits and Discharge Piping

Most sump-pump failures trace back to one of four components, not always the pump itself. The float switch tells the pump when to start and stop, and a tethered, vertical or electronic float can stick, tangle against the basin or fail to reset. The check valve keeps the water already in the discharge line from falling back into the pit after each cycle; without it, the pump re-pumps the same water and shortens its life.

The pit and basin must be deep and wide enough for the pump and float travel, and the discharge piping must carry water away from the foundation to a code-approved destination. If the discharge exits too close to the foundation, runs into a frozen or buried line, or lacks a proper air gap or backflow protection where required, the pump may move water that simply returns to the pit.

• Float switch type, travel and clearance
• Check valve presence and condition
• Pit and basin size and condition
• Discharge routing away from the foundation
• Frozen or blocked discharge line
• Backflow protection where required

Seasonal Testing Before Storms, Snowmelt and Freezing Weather

A sump pump should be tested twice a year — early spring before the wet season and early fall before the heaviest rains — and after any major storm. A simple test is to pour a bucket of water into the pit and confirm the pump starts, moves the water out efficiently and shuts off cleanly.

Before winter, the discharge line should be checked for freezing risk. A line that exits above grade can freeze shut, forcing the pump to run against pressure or fail. Snowmelt over frozen ground behaves much like a summer downpour, so a pump that coasted through one season can still be overwhelmed the next.

• Pour-test the pump startup and shut-off
• Confirm the float moves freely
• Inspect the check valve and discharge
• Check for a frozen or buried discharge line
• Test the backup pump and battery
• Confirm the outlet is a dedicated, working circuit

Repair Versus Replacement

A float switch, check valve or clogged intake on an otherwise healthy pump is usually a straightforward repair. A pump at or past the 7 to 10 year mark that is short-cycling, noisy, rusting or running constantly is typically better replaced before it fails during a storm.

When a repair is still the right answer, we do the repair. When the pump has reached the end of its service life or is undersized for the basement, we walk you through both options so you can compare. We do not guarantee that any repair or replacement prevents all flooding; the goal is a complete system tested before the next storm or thaw.

• Pump age and cycle history
• The specific repair needed versus a replacement
• Pit, float, check valve and discharge condition
• Whether a backup is in place
• Whether the existing pump is sized correctly

$29/month sump-pump membership warranty

$29/month — Lifetime Warranty on Your Qualifying Sump Pump, Including 100% Covered Parts & Labor, While Membership Remains Active.

Coverage applies only to the qualifying sump pump. It does not include backup systems or their components and is not a blanket warranty for other plumbing, heating or cooling equipment.

Membership may be paid by recurring card, Zelle or an approved manual payment method. Zelle and manual payments are not automatic unless separately arranged. Coverage ends if the membership is canceled or delinquent, or if required annual maintenance is not completed. Written membership and warranty terms and eligibility apply.

Service Areas

Right Away Plumbing & HVAC is based at 2093 Rand Rd, Des Plaines, IL 60016. We provide sump-pump installation, repair and battery-backup service in Des Plaines, Chicago, Park Ridge, Mount Prospect, Glenview, Arlington Heights, Buffalo Grove, Northbrook, Palatine, Schaumburg, Rolling Meadows, Addison, Elmhurst, Lombard, Oak Brook, Hyde Park and surrounding communities.

Call 847-550-3322 for suburban properties. Call 773-250-6060 for Chicago properties. Right Away Plumbing & HVAC is licensed, bonded and insured.

Request Sump-Pump Service

If your sump pump is short-cycling, will not start, runs but leaves water in the pit, or you want a backup system installed before the next storm, schedule diagnosis now.

Call 847-550-3322 for Des Plaines and the surrounding suburbs. Call 773-250-6060 for Chicago, or send your details through our contact page.