Sump Pump Installation and Repair in Des Plaines

Sump-Pump Diagnosis and Repair

A sump pump that runs constantly, short-cycles, will not start, or runs but leaves water in the pit is not protecting the basement the way it should. Our technician checks the pump, float switch, check valve, discharge piping and power supply before recommending any replacement.

Common repairs include a worn float switch, a failed check valve, a clogged intake screen, a stuck impeller, a tripped breaker or GFCI, or a discharge line blocked by debris or ice. We explain what we found and the available repair or replacement options before any work begins.

• Pump startup and shut-off cycle
• Float switch operation and travel
• Check valve condition
• Intake screen and impeller
• Discharge line and exterior exit
• Dedicated outlet, breaker and GFCI
• Backup pump and battery test where present

New Sump-Pump Installation and Replacement

When a pump has reached the end of its service life, cycles heavily in a high-water-table basement, or is undersized for the pit and the home's drainage load, replacement is often the better long-term answer. We size the replacement pump to the pit diameter, the lift height, the expected water volume and the discharge run rather than dropping in the same model by default.

A new installation includes removing the old pump, inspecting the pit and basin, setting the new pump at the correct height, reconnecting the check valve and discharge, securing the float travel, testing the startup and shut-off cycle, and confirming water moves out of the pit and away from the foundation.

• Selecting the correct horsepower and head rating
• Pit and basin condition and depth
• Check valve and discharge reconnection
• Float switch travel and anti-tangle clearance
• Dedicated, grounded electrical supply
• Startup test with water in the pit

Battery-Backup and Water-Powered Backup Options

The storms most likely to flood a basement are often the same storms that knock out power. A primary pump on house current alone cannot run during an outage, so a backup pump is one of the most worthwhile additions for a finished Chicago-area basement.

We install battery-backup sump pumps that activate when the primary pump loses power or cannot keep up, and water-powered backup pumps that use municipal water pressure instead of a battery. Runtime of a battery backup depends on the battery capacity, the pump and how hard the pit is working. A water-powered unit needs adequate municipal water pressure and proper backflow protection and is not an option for homes on a private well; we tell you whether your home is a candidate.

We do not promise that any backup system prevents all flooding. What a correctly installed backup does is keep the pit pumping when the primary pump or the power fails.

• Battery-backup pump with a charged and maintained battery
• Water-powered backup where municipal water allows
• High-water alarm to warn of a rising pit level
• Separate discharge where required
• Annual battery and connection check

Warning Signs That a Sump Pump May Be Failing

Watch for:

• Runs constantly or short-cycles
• Loud grinding, rattling or humming
• Pump runs but water stays in the pit
• Tripped breaker or GFCI
• Visible rust or corrosion
• Pump age near or past 7 to 10 years
• No backup power and a finished basement
• Discharge line frozen, crushed or buried

Float Switches, Check Valves, Pits and Discharge Piping

Most sump-pump failures trace back to one of four components, not always the pump itself. The float switch tells the pump when to start and stop, and a tethered, vertical or electronic float can stick, tangle against the basin or fail to reset. The check valve keeps the water already in the discharge line from falling back into the pit after each cycle; without it, the pump re-pumps the same water and shortens its life.

The pit and basin must be deep and wide enough for the pump and float travel, and the discharge piping must carry water away from the foundation to a code-approved destination. If the discharge exits too close to the foundation, runs into a frozen or buried line, or lacks a proper air gap or backflow protection where required, the pump may move water that simply returns to the pit.

• Float switch type, travel and clearance
• Check valve presence and condition
• Pit and basin size and condition
• Discharge routing away from the foundation
• Frozen or blocked discharge line
• Backflow protection where required

Seasonal Testing Before Storms, Snowmelt and Freezing Weather

A sump pump should be tested twice a year — early spring before the wet season and early fall before the heaviest rains — and after any major storm. A simple test is to pour a bucket of water into the pit and confirm the pump starts, moves the water out efficiently and shuts off cleanly.

Before winter, the discharge line should be checked for freezing risk. A line that exits above grade can freeze shut, forcing the pump to run against pressure or fail. Snowmelt over frozen ground behaves much like a summer downpour, so a pump that coasted through one season can still be overwhelmed the next.

• Pour-test the pump startup and shut-off
• Confirm the float moves freely
• Inspect the check valve and discharge
• Check for a frozen or buried discharge line
• Test the backup pump and battery
• Confirm the outlet is a dedicated, working circuit

Repair Versus Replacement

A float switch, check valve or clogged intake on an otherwise healthy pump is usually a straightforward repair. A pump at or past the 7 to 10 year mark that is short-cycling, noisy, rusting or running constantly is typically better replaced before it fails during a storm.

When a repair is still the right answer, we do the repair. When the pump has reached the end of its service life or is undersized for the basement, we quote both options and let you compare. We do not guarantee that any repair or replacement prevents all flooding; the goal is a complete system tested before the next storm or thaw.

• Pump age and cycle history
• Cost of the specific repair versus a replacement
• Pit, float, check valve and discharge condition
• Whether a backup is in place
• Whether the existing pump is sized correctly

Service Areas

Right Away Plumbing & HVAC is based at 2093 Rand Rd, Des Plaines, IL 60016. We provide sump-pump installation, repair and battery-backup service in Des Plaines, Chicago, Park Ridge, Mount Prospect, Glenview, Arlington Heights, Buffalo Grove, Northbrook, Palatine, Schaumburg, Rolling Meadows, Addison, Elmhurst, Lombard, Oak Brook, Hyde Park and surrounding communities.

Call 847-550-3322 for suburban properties. Call 773-250-6060 for Chicago properties. Right Away Plumbing & HVAC is licensed, bonded and insured.

Request Sump-Pump Service

If your sump pump is short-cycling, will not start, runs but leaves water in the pit, or you want a backup system installed before the next storm, schedule diagnosis now.

Call 847-550-3322 for Des Plaines and the surrounding suburbs. Call 773-250-6060 for Chicago, or send your details through our contact page.